New Orleans, Louisiana
New Orleans, Louisiana
CONTINUING THE RICH TRADITIONS OF OVER 300 YEARS OF CULTURE, HISTORY, & ONE-OF-A-KIND CUISINE
BY ELAINE & SCOTT HARRIS
New Orleans! There is so much to say about it, so much to see, and, of course, there’s the food. The heart and soul of New Orleans surmount the insurmountable while maintaining its cultural identity, tradition, and customs. The crescent city is exceptional by overcoming adversities that would have destroyed others, yet it takes its three hundred-plus-year history and continues to entice, revise, and reinvent itself.
New Orleans author Kerri McCaffety writes, “New Orleans restaurants all dip a silver ladle or a wooden spoon into three hundred years of simmering history to incite epicurean ecstasy in the dream city of pleasure.”
Food is undoubtedly plentiful, purposeful, and filled with passion and pride in the crescent city. The best way to start your day is at the glorious Beignet Bastian of Café Du Monde. Take a seat and get a little bit messy with Louisiana’s state donut, also known as the beignet. Beignet and a Café du Monde chicory coffee with half hot milk—café au lait is a quiescently New Orleans treat. The original stand was established in 1862 and continues to draw large crowds even during the pandemic protocols. The generous dusting of partially melted powdered sugar on the light French-style donut is an authentic taste experience like no other. Dark roasted coffee and chicory, white and chocolate milk, as well as fresh-squeezed orange juice are available at the cash-only walk-up counter. Go early in the morning before the lines start forming and listen to some groovy jazz of the street trumpeters as they serenade the hungry patrons.
Antoines
One cannot get closer to a historical dining experience than a visit to Antoine’s, the United States oldest family-run restaurant. Celebrating 182 years is unfathomable to many in the restaurant industry, where most establishments crash and burn within the first year. “The duty of a good Cuisiner is to transmit to the next generation everything he has learned and experience,” said Fernard Point in 1941, and Antoine’s has been doing this since the 1800s. Antoine Alciatoire established the 700 rue de St. Louis restaurant in 1868; his enduring quality of hospitality, service, and excellent food has transcended the tumult of history and continues into the present day.
Veteran server at Antoines, Paul
Let us begin with a solution to a French snail shortage in the 1800s when Antoine’s son Jules faced a quandary over reinventing his father’s specialty dish of Snail Bourguignon. The answer came as a new dish conceived by sourcing local oysters, giving rise to the famous dish, Oyster Rockefeller. The recipe is still a secret today,” said Lisa Blount, Co-proprietor. “There is absolutely no spinach in the recipe, but what greens are in this highly sought-after dish continue to be closely guarded to this day, although many have tried to figure it out over the decades.” The crusty green vegetable topping atop a well-seasoned baked oyster in the half shell is a truly iconic New Orleans dish and a must on NOLA’s culinary line-up.
After 50 years, Executive Chef Rich Lee took over the renowned kitchen. He is now at the helm creating dishes noted for their time-tested originality like Crayfish Etouffee, Shrimp Remoulade, Shrimp Meuniere, Oysters Bienville, Chicken Creole, Pompano en Papillote. Request Paul, a veteran server of 30 plus years, to prepare tableside another Jules original, the Café Brule Diabolique: a hot brandy concoction seasoned with a combination of citrus and cloves. Paul waxes eloquently as he gracefully ladles the flaming liquid into an elegant demitasse cup.
While dining at this iconic restaurant, be sure to tour the many rooms that have hosted socialites, celebrities, Krewes, Kings, and dazzling Mardi Gras Queens. The paintings, memorabilia, and photos, along with many storied stately dining rooms, have been restored to their glory days. By all accounts, Antoine’s has done just that with elegance and care for all the future generations of NOLA diners.
Arnaud’s Crab
Presently celebrating well over 100 years, Arnaud’s is a place that covers an entire city block. Lines of eager diners perpetually spill out into Bourbon Street, waiting for a table within this two-story French bistro-style restaurant. Sip on a classic French 75 while grazing on soufflé potatoes with béarnaise sauce and selecting menu items from the Table d’Hote menu, honoring the first 30 years within their ten decades.
Arnaud’s Puff Potato
Around the corner, Jean Galatoire established Galatoire’s location in 1905, and generations of family members have carried on the legacy of superb dining. It stands as a stalwart dining institution replete with gold fleur-de-lis patterned wallpaper (hand painted after the original) and quaint Parisian café tables, covered in starched white tablecloths sporting gleaming glassware. Well-groomed jacketed cloaked waiters hover like bees within the continuous hive of dining activity while diners’ dish on menu staples such as the Shrimp Remoulade and the Redfish Meuniere Amandine.
The culinary tradition continues to thrive in New Orleans. Yet, another star is The Napoleon House, on the corner of Chartres and St. Louis streets in the historical French Quarter of New Orleans. Its vibrant history includes the plan to provide refuge for the exiled Napoleon Bonaparte by the original owner, Nicholas Girod.
Grilled Cheese at Napoleon House
The décor is a classic French bistro with deeply patinated walls, uneven floors, and walls full of quotes from famous regular guests. The renowned Pimm’s Cup made its mark at the Napoleon House bar in the late 1940s. The authentic The Pimm’s Cup is a gin-based aperitif mixed with fresh lemonade, seven up, and a sliver of cucumber that provides a refreshing cocktail that cools you off during hot summer days in New Orleans.
Shrimp and Grits at Commander’s Palace
New Orleans has many jewels in its crown, and Commander’s Palace, nestled in the middle of the tree-lined Garden District, has been a New Orleans landmark since 1893. Celebrated for the award-winning quality of its food and its classic southern atmosphere, the history of this famous restaurant offers a glimpse into New Orleans’ storied past is the go-to destination for Haute Creole cuisine and Louisiana charm. The winner of seven James Beard Foundation Awards, Commander’s Palace is a culinary legend. Ella, Dottie, Dick, and John Brennan took over personal supervision of the restaurant in 1974; they began to give the splendid old landmark a new look both inside and out, including painting the outside the iconic “Commander’s Blue.”
Now at the helm, co-proprietors Ti Adelaide Martin and Lally Brennan make sure the Brennan family’s dedication to perfection has never wavered. Ella Brennan put together a parade of renowned chefs, including Emeril Lagasse, Paul Prudhomme, Jamie Shannon, Tory McPhail, and Meg Bickford. Its leading-edge Haute Creole cuisine reflects the best of the city.
In the kitchen, we found Chef Megan “Meg” Bickford, who has called the Commander’s Palace kitchen her culinary home since June 2008 and took on the role of Executive Chef in October 2020. With over 12 years of experience with the Commander’s Family of Restaurants, Chef Meg previously served as the Executive Chef of Cafe Adelaide, the Commander’s family’s lively, modern Creole restaurant. Noted as one of FSR Magazine’s “Rising Stars” and one of Louisiana Cookin’s “Chefs to Watch.”
“Meg has always been a spitfire in the kitchen, a ball of energy with eyes darting about, seeing, and learning everything; she is small but mighty and has the complete respect of our entire kitchen and restaurant. There is a sparkle in her eye and magic in those hands,” said Lally Brennan, who joined us at our table. Bickford has wasted no time making her mark on the menu. Recently she has added Miso & Sugarcane Shrimp Coated Redfish with spicy chilis, lemongrass, shaved Mirliton, ripped mint, and lime in addition to a genuinely lovely Dirty Duck Confit served with sweet citrus and sour orange pepper jelly over Louisiana heirloom pumpkin au gratin.
“For me, the future seems hidden in the past. Studying New Orleans and Louisiana cooking inspires me to see where the past can intersect with the future. The possibilities seem endless,” shares Bickford. “I want to dive deeper into all the influences on our cuisine. Creole cuisine always has and should always evolve, and our team gets excited about the different flavors and ingredients shaping cuisine all over Louisiana right now. We are not about standing still. I am eager to keep moving it forward with the Commander’s team,” she added.
Brunch at Commander’s Palace
Our “dirt to plate within 100 miles” policy means that we strive for 90% of our ingredients to come from within 100 miles of our back door. Our cooking has the flavor of distinctive Louisiana terroir. Meg and the Commander’s Kitchen team know its history but live by the philosophy that … “all of our best meals are still ahead of us,” Lally Brennan said with a smile. Pecan Crusted Gulf Redfish with Prosecco poached jumbo lump crab over roasted late summer corn, asparagus, grilled kale, melted leeks, and lemony whiskey flambéed crab fat butter is a delightful dish that pays tribute to Bickford’s culinary skill. For FINI, the incredibly famous Creole Bread Pudding Soufflé turns sweet into sinful.
As we move forward into the 20th century, the Irish Brennan family cornered the NOLA dining world and has propelled itself into the 21st century a leader in the hospitality industry with numerous James Beard awards and other distinguished accolades. Count Arnaud goaded that an Irishman could not work in the restaurant business. Still, Owen Brennan proved otherwise, opening Owen Brennan’s Vieux Carre, which became a success much to Arnaud’s chagrin.
After moving to the present Royal Street location, Brennan became the dining darling of the 20th century under the steady direction of dining Grand Dame, Ella Brennan. The newcomer on the block eclipsed dinner at Antoine’s. Breakfast at Brennan’s remains the best in what New Orleans culinary has to offer and recently was named restaurant of the year by New Orleans Magazine. Bananas Foster is bathed in flaming rum sauce and continues to be one of the most copied desserts of all time.
Not all restaurants are over 150 years old, but keeping with the city’s rich history of excellent food, visit the Royal Sonesta and take a seat at Restaurant R’evolution. Executive New Orleans Chef John Folse partnered with James Beard award-winning Chef Rick Tramonto post-Katrina to form the Folse Tramonto Restaurant Development that became the catalyst for their premier joint venture, Restaurant R’evolution. Folse is an authority on Cajun-Creole cooking, having authored nine books on Louisiana’s immutable cuisine. With that depth of knowledge, Folse and Tramonto go to great lengths to showcase the gastronomic traditions of the seven primary nations that influenced the dining history and traditions of New Orleans.
The Raviolini con Burrata and the Beef Tenderloin with Venison Sausage are other dishes that pay homage to Italian heritage influences upon the New Orleans culinary make-up. The gumbo aptly named Death by Gumbo (an excellent last meal choice) is a top menu draw. A golden quail delightfully endowed with tasty bits of andouille, oysters, and file rice gently rests in an exquisite rich roux. The decadent depth of flavor and texture spills from each spoonful into mouthfuls of ecstatic lusciousness. Now you can go satiated with dishes that will be in your memory forever.
Although Merils, an Emeril Lagasse restaurant, remained open during the tumultuous time of COVID, Emerils, New Orleans, shuttered until recently. Cynical CNN correspondent, the late Anthony Bourdain, deemed Emeril’s top 10 restaurants to visit in New Orleans. Take his lead and venture over to each venue. Merils appeals to those who want a more causal party-like atmosphere, complete with complimentary sparkler enhance dessert for those celebrating a special occasion. Emeril’s re-opening has long been anticipated as it will once again have locals and tourists coming back again, year after year. Each bite speaks volumes of New Orlean’s love affair with Emeril’s texturally rich, inventive, and well-executed dishes.
La Petite Grocery, a historic refurbished sundries store, is under the direction of 2016 James Beard South winner Justin Devillier, Chef Proprietor, and wife Mia Freiberger-Devillier. Opening in 2004 and then re-opening post-Katrina again, this neighborhood restaurant is worth the visit away from Bourbon Street. The blue crab beignets with malt vinegar aioli and the house-made butternut squash & Comte ravioli are several superb dishes that showcase culinary nuances with modern sophistication rendering supreme taste, texture, and presentation. Carefully crafted cocktails, an extensive wine list, and exquisite fresh desserts are served with convivial southern charm.
A short cab ride to the warehouse district, you will find Compere Lapin that has taken a lucky leap in the culinary future of New Orleans. Compere Lapin, meaning brother rabbit after the fabled namesake of several Caribbean and Creole traditional folktales, is the inspiration behind this new outpost of James Beard award-winning chef, Chef Nina Compton. Finding her epicurean home in the renovated No. 77 Hotel and Chandlery, Chef Compton brings with her the astute skills of taking the classic Caribbean, French, and Italian flavors and weaving them into a culinary story that reads both whimsical and approachable.
Jackson Square
Take time and meander into the residential areas in between bites and explore some of the beautiful New Orleans architecture. Prominent architectural archival artist and research enthusiast Jim Blanchard says, “South Louisiana architecture has a different flare and the largest collection of historic buildings in the country, and there is no other place like it.” From Jackson square to the infamous Lafitte’s Blacksmith shop dating back to the late 1700s, explore and enjoy stalwart structures; encased with lacey lattice ornamental ironwork adorning balconies that have held hundreds of Mardi Gras and parade watchers for centuries.
Stop by the Vampire-themed shop Boutique Du Vampyre as you make your way through the fabled French Quarter. Proprietor Marita Jaeger features locally crafted vampire-themed gifts such as vampire soaps, fortune candles, and a magic wand that can turn all your electronics on with one wave of the hand.
Since opening in 2003, Marita Woywood Cradle authored New Orleans Vampires History and Legend and was featured on the History Channels’ the UNExplained. Embarking on Vampire Adventures, tarot readings, or a visit to her hidden speakeasy, Potions (where guests can access the entrance with a secret password by inquiring on membership information), is what motivates Marita. “There’s so much opportunity and people who love things like this here, and we are in a noted tourist town, “said Marita. Whisper the password, walk up the winding rickety old staircase near the bar at the oldest Jazz club in NOLA, Fritzels. Enjoy drinks such as the Blood Drop Martini or the Southern Spell while playing a lively board game or having a tarot card reading. Recently Marita pivoted again in the world of dining with the opening of The New Orleans Vampire Café. “The chef and I built this place in one month; I still can’t get over it,” said Marita. Local chef Chris Dunn creates vampire-themed pleasing dishes such as Vampire Beef Tartare with tender raw filet mignon delicately capped with bulls-blood microgreens and white truffle oil. Grab a gold fork and take a BITE; you will be glad you did. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner featuring a hauntingly good menu, craft cocktails, wines, and, of course, spirits.
Houmas House
An hour’s drive from bustling New Orleans lies the sleepy bayou outskirts of Darrow, Louisiana, where the Inn at Houmas House and Gardens stands. Readers of the USA Today deemed Houmas House as the top historical tourist attraction in Louisiana. Formally as a historic residence, a working plantation, a movie set, and now through the dedication of one man’s generous resources, time, and money, visitors can enjoy a serene setting surrounded by lush gardens, superb dining and shopping options, an outdoor amphitheater along with the new Great River Road Museum.
Seeing the grandeur and the luxury in such a secluded area in the 1800s makes one wonder how such luxury could have existed in a world of no refrigeration or many other daily conveniences that we take for granted. The Houmas House and Gardens maintains and preserves a vast collection of rare and expensive artworks, gorgeous gardens, acclaimed restaurants, luxury cottages, and an extensive wine cellar located in converted water cisterns.
Houmas House Gardens
Kevin Kelly is the owner of this architectural treasure. Kelly has painstakingly restored the Houmas House with expansive gardens, rare artifacts, and historical creditability. “The Houmas House is a historic estate, formerly the largest plantation in the United States,” says Kelly. “I am treating this more like an urban business than that of the rural historic house. I had to make it work and have a direction. I want you to come here to have a meal, to have a drink, to enjoy it, and come back every couple of weeks.” An hour’s drive from New Orleans is well worth the time and effort to explore and meet an area that did leave the landscape of American culture.
“We title this the crown jewel of Louisiana’s River Road primarily because of its importance. It is the Sugar Palace, a special place to see great artwork, water gardens, architectural gardens, and rare furniture collections,” said Kelly. “It is a place to see the culture of the Mississippi river, the folktale, and the commerce of the great river.”
Houmas House
The Great River Road Museum is open for visitors to tour as a major interpretive center for the Lower Mississippi River and the Lower Great River Road National Byway. Kevin Kelly is determined to preserve a part of history that defined the south for decades.
A legend exists that notorious Voodoo Queen Marie Laveau still plies magic on those entering New Orleans, compelling visitors to return year after year. New Orleans, a city rich in history, fables, and fabulous food, has weathered the rigors of time and tumult to endure as one of the most visited and beloved vacation destinations in the world. Once you experience the “Big Easy,” you too may come under the spell of “Southern Hospitality.”
The Great River Road Museum
